Gnawa Music in Morocco: Origins, Instruments and Where to Hear It
Gnawa (Gnaoua) is a spiritual and musical tradition of Morocco created by descendants of people from sub-Saharan Africa. It combines the deep three-stringed guembri bass, iron castanets called qraqeb and call-and-response singing in long, trance-like pieces. UNESCO inscribed Gnawa on its list of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2019. You can hear it in Essaouira, Marrakech's Jemaa el-Fnaa, and the desert village of Khamlia near Merzouga.
Origins
Gnawa culture developed among communities brought to Morocco from West Africa, many through the trans-Saharan trade, over several centuries. Their music blended West African rhythms with Islamic Sufi devotion and local Amazigh and Arab influences. The brotherhoods kept their rituals alive through oral transmission from master (maâlem) to apprentice.
Instruments
- Guembri (sintir): a long-necked three-string lute with a camel-skin body, played by the maâlem; it provides the bass line.
- Qraqeb: pairs of large iron castanets producing the driving metallic rhythm.
- Tbel: a large drum used in processions.
The lila ceremony
The traditional context of Gnawa music is the lila, an all-night healing and spiritual ceremony with music, incense, colours and trance, in which each sequence is associated with spirits. Concerts for the public are a different, secular setting; attend a ceremony only by invitation and with respect.
Where to hear Gnawa music
- Essaouira: the spiritual home of Gnawa and host of the Gnaoua World Music Festival, usually in June. Visit on the Essaouira day trip; see Morocco's festivals.
- Khamlia, near Merzouga: a Gnawa village that welcomes visitors with music and tea, often included on desert tours. Read things to do in Merzouga and join the 3-day Sahara tour.
- Jemaa el-Fnaa, Marrakech: Gnawa groups play in the square in the evening; see Marrakech at night.
- Desert camps: drumming around the fire after dinner.
Gnawa and world music
Since the 1960s, Gnawa masters have collaborated with jazz, rock and blues musicians, and the Essaouira festival continues these fusions. Learn more about the UNESCO inscription on UNESCO's Gnawa page.
Book it with a local operator
- From Marrakech: Essaouira Day Trip to the Atlantic Coast — from €25 per person, pay on the day.
- From Marrakech: 3-Day Sahara Desert Tour to Merzouga with Camel Trek — from €145 per person, pay on the day.
- Marrakech: Street Food Tour by Night with 10+ Tastings — from €39 per person, pay on the day.
Related guides
- Morocco Festivals and Holidays: A Month-by-Month Calendar for Travellers
- Marrakech at Night: 12 Things to Do After Dark
- Argan Oil in Morocco: Cooperatives, Tree-Climbing Goats and How to Buy the Real Thing
Frequently asked questions
What is Gnawa music?
A Moroccan spiritual music tradition with sub-Saharan roots, built on the guembri bass lute, iron castanets (qraqeb) and call-and-response singing.
Where can I hear Gnawa music in Morocco?
In Essaouira (especially during the June festival), in the village of Khamlia near Merzouga, and at Jemaa el-Fnaa in Marrakech.
Is Gnawa recognised by UNESCO?
Yes. Gnawa was inscribed on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2019.
What instrument is used in Gnawa music?
The main instrument is the guembri (or sintir), accompanied by qraqeb castanets and sometimes drums.
Main photo: User:AlexandrDmitri, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0.
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