Chouara Tannery Fes: How to Visit Morocco's Famous Leather Dye Pits
The Chouara tannery in the Fes el-Bali medina is the largest and most famous of the city's traditional tanneries, where hides have been treated and dyed in stone vats for centuries. You view it from the terraces of the surrounding leather shops, usually for free in exchange for browsing (a small tip is customary). Go in the morning, when the most dyeing happens and the light is best.
How the traditional process works
Raw hides of cows, sheep, goats and camels are first softened in white vats containing a mix that traditionally includes quicklime and pigeon droppings, which loosen hair and soften the skin. The hides are then moved to the coloured vats, dyed with natural and synthetic pigments (historically poppy for red, indigo for blue, henna for orange, saffron for yellow) and left to dry in the sun on the rooftops. Workers stand in the vats and handle the hides by hand, as they have for generations.
How to visit
- The tannery is near Place Seffarine, in the heart of the medina, behind the leather souk (Derb Chouara).
- Terraces are accessed through the leather shops: you will be invited up, given a sprig of mint for the smell, and shown the view.
- There is no ticket. A small tip to the person who guides you to the terrace is normal if you do not buy anything.
- Mornings (9:00–11:00) are best for activity and light.
Avoiding tannery scams
- Ignore people in the street who claim the tannery is closed or offer to take you to "the real one".
- Agree a price in advance if someone offers to guide you.
- Do not feel obliged to buy: look, thank the shopkeeper and leave a small tip if you wish.
- Go with a licensed guide on a Fes medina guided tour to avoid hassle entirely.
Buying leather in Fes
Bags, jackets, babouches and poufs are sold in the shops overlooking the tannery. Check stitching and smell, and bargain politely. Prices are usually lower than in Marrakech for similar quality. Our souk bargaining guide applies here too.
More in the Fes medina
See the Al-Attarine and Bou Inania madrasas, the Nejjarine fountain and the souks in our Fes el-Bali medina guide. Then head north on the Chefchaouen day trip or south to the dunes on the Fes to Marrakech desert tour.
The medina is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Book it with a local operator
- Fes: Guided Tour of Fes el-Bali Medina, Tanneries & Madrasas — from €29 per person, pay on the day.
- From Fes: Chefchaouen Blue City Day Trip in the Rif Mountains — from €55 per person, pay on the day.
- From Fes: 3-Day Sahara Desert Tour to Marrakech via Merzouga — from €165 per person, pay on the day.
Related guides
- Volubilis and Meknes Day Trip from Fes: Roman Ruins and an Imperial City
- Chefchaouen Blue City Guide: Why It's Blue, What to See and How to Visit from Fes
- Moroccan Rugs Buying Guide: Beni Ourain, Boucherouite, Kilim and Fair Prices
Frequently asked questions
Is it free to visit the Chouara tannery?
Yes, viewing from the leather shop terraces is free; a small tip is customary if you do not buy anything.
Does the Fes tannery smell bad?
Yes, the smell is strong, especially in summer. Shops hand out mint to hold under your nose.
What is the best time to visit the Fes tanneries?
In the morning, roughly 9:00–11:00, when workers are dyeing and the light is good for photos.
Do I need a guide to find the Chouara tannery?
Not necessarily, but the medina is confusing and touts are common, so a licensed guide makes the visit easier.
Main photo: Bernard Gagnon, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0.
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