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Kasbah Telouet: The Glaoui Palace Hidden in the High Atlas

Crumbling earthen walls of the Glaoui kasbah at Telouet in the High Atlas

Kasbah Telouet is the former stronghold of the Glaoui family, the pashas who controlled the High Atlas caravan routes and much of southern Morocco in the early 20th century. Its outer walls are crumbling, but the reception rooms keep superb zellige, carved stucco and painted cedar ceilings. It lies about 20 km east of the Tizi n'Tichka road and can be visited in about 45 minutes.

History of the Glaoui and Telouet

Telouet controlled a strategic caravan route between Marrakech and the Sahara. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the Glaoui family grew rich and powerful, and Thami El Glaoui became Pasha of Marrakech under the French protectorate. The kasbah was enlarged into a palace with hundreds of rooms. After Moroccan independence in 1956, the family fell from power and the kasbah was abandoned; parts of it have been stabilised and opened to visitors.

What to see

  • The reception halls: colourful zellige, carved plaster and cedar ceilings comparable to the finest palaces of Marrakech.
  • The rooftop terrace: views over the village, the salt-rich slopes and the mountains.
  • The ruins: earthen towers and walls slowly returning to the land, very photogenic in late afternoon light.

The Ounila Valley road

From Telouet, a scenic road follows the Ounila Valley south through red cliffs, villages and the ksar of Anemiter to Ait Benhaddou. It is a beautiful alternative to the main N9 for travellers with time; check its condition locally before driving it.

Practical tips

  • Allow 45 minutes to an hour for the visit, plus about 30 minutes each way from the N9.
  • A small entrance fee is paid in dirhams; a local guide explains the rooms.
  • Combine with Ait Benhaddou and Ouarzazate: see the Tizi n'Tichka pass and Ait Benhaddou.
  • Telouet can be added to a private tour or a day trip to Ait Benhaddou on request.

Read more about the Glaoui period on Wikipedia's Thami El Glaoui article.

Book it with a local operator

Frequently asked questions

Is Kasbah Telouet worth visiting?

Yes, for its richly decorated reception rooms and the story of the Glaoui pashas. It is a quieter alternative to busier kasbahs.

How far is Telouet from Marrakech?

About 3 hours by road, crossing the Tizi n'Tichka pass and taking a 20 km detour east.

Can you drive from Telouet to Ait Benhaddou?

Yes, via the scenic Ounila Valley road. Ask locally about its condition before you set off.

Who were the Glaoui?

A powerful Amazigh family who controlled the High Atlas routes; Thami El Glaoui was Pasha of Marrakech during the French protectorate.

Main photo: Curt Mühe, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.

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